The road to Borgarfjörður Eystri is long and mostly unpaved, and most visitors who make it this far have come specifically for the birds. That specificity of purpose rewards them. Hafnarhólmi, a small rocky islet connected to the village harbour by a causeway and boardwalk system, holds one of the most straightforward puffin encounters in Iceland, which is saying something in a country where Atlantic puffins nest along much of the coastline.

Why it’s worth the trip

Most puffin viewings in Iceland involve scanning clifftops from a distance or leaning over barriers at crowded tourist sites near Reykjavik. Hafnarhólmi is different in degree, not just in kind. The wooden walkways were built at ground level, running directly through the nesting area, which means birds are visible from a few metres away. Puffins standing at burrow entrances, returning with sand eels, or simply sitting in clusters on the grass are all observable without binoculars, though binoculars obviously help.

The colony is large. Estimates have placed it in the tens of thousands of pairs, making Hafnarhólmi one of the more significant puffin concentrations in the East Fjords region. But the size matters less than the proximity. You are watching individual birds doing specific things: grooming, bickering at burrow edges, landing clumsily after a fishing run. Puffins are ungainly on land in a way that is genuinely entertaining to observe without needing to embellish it.

The site also attracts other seabirds. Black guillemots, eider ducks, and various gulls use the harbour area, so a visit here is worth treating as broader birdwatching rather than a single-species tick.

Beyond the birds, Borgarfjörður Eystri itself is a small, remote community with a strong local character. The surrounding landscape includes the Dyrfjöll mountains, which are dramatic in a geological rather than scenic-postcard sense: angular, dark, and interesting to look at from the village. Hikers who combine the puffin visit with trails in the area will find the detour into the East Fjords worthwhile on those grounds alone.

How to get there

Borgarfjörður Eystri sits at the end of Route 94, which branches off the Ring Road near Egilsstadir. The drive from Egilsstadir takes roughly one hour under normal conditions, but conditions vary. Part of the road passes through mountain terrain and includes sections that can be affected by snow or fog well into June. Check road conditions at road.is before departing, particularly if you are travelling in May or early June.

The road is manageable in a standard car for most of the summer season, but it is not fast or smooth. Allow more time than the distance suggests. There is no public bus service that runs reliably to Borgarfjörður Eystri, so unless you are on a guided tour, you will need your own vehicle.

Hafnarhólmi is at the harbour, which is easy to find in a village this size. Parking is available near the harbour area.

What to expect on arrival

The boardwalk system is the practical core of the visit. It loops around Hafnarhólmi in a way that covers the main nesting terraces and offers multiple vantage points. The walk itself is easy, on level or gently inclined wooden boards. An upper deck or raised viewing platform gives a broader perspective over the islet and back toward the village. Total walking time on the boardwalk is well under an hour at a relaxed pace, which makes the overall visit a half-morning or half-afternoon activity rather than a full day.

Puffins nest in burrows in the grass and soil above the waterline. They are most active in the morning and evening, making those hours preferable for observation. Midday visits are still productive but birds may be less present at burrow entrances. Activity also depends on weather. In wind and rain, birds tend to shelter or remain at sea, and what you see will be noticeably reduced compared to a calm sunny morning.

The colony is active roughly from May through August, with the peak concentration of birds in June and July. By late August numbers start to decline as birds prepare to leave for the open ocean, where they spend winter.

The village has a small café and basic facilities, though availability and hours should not be assumed without checking locally.

When to go

May is possible but early. Birds arrive back at the colony during this month, and numbers build through the weeks. Conditions on the mountain road can still be wintry.

June and July represent the main nesting period and the best overall window. Days are very long at this latitude, which effectively extends your options for morning or evening visits significantly. Light at 9 or 10pm in late June is still good for photography.

August remains productive, particularly in the first half of the month. The birds begin gathering offshore before departure, and there can be large flocks visible from the boardwalk on calm days.

Weather in the East Fjords does not follow a simple pattern. The region can have clearer conditions than the south when Atlantic weather systems push through, but it can equally be fogged in for days. Flexibility in your schedule pays off here.

Tips and responsible-visitor notes

A few practical points worth keeping in mind:

  • Stay on the boardwalk. The nesting area is in the soil and grass directly beside and below the walkway. Stepping off the path risks collapsing burrows, which are more fragile than they appear.
  • Move slowly and speak quietly near the birds. Puffins are tolerant of close human presence, and Hafnarhólmi birds are clearly accustomed to visitors, but sudden movements or noise cause flushing and unnecessary disturbance.
  • Keep camera equipment low and movements gradual when photographing. Long lenses let you fill the frame without crowding individual birds.
  • Dogs, if allowed in the area at all, should be kept under strict control. Confirm any restrictions locally.
  • The site can get busy in July, particularly on weekends or when tour vehicles arrive. Visiting in early morning or evening reduces congestion and improves the quality of observation.
  • Bring layers. Harbour areas in Iceland are rarely warm, and the temperature at Borgarfjörður Eystri can be significantly cooler than forecasts suggest, especially with any wind off the water.

The site requires no particular physical fitness and has no meaningful access barriers on the main boardwalk route. For visitors travelling through the East Fjords on Route 1, the detour to Borgarfjörður Eystri adds roughly two hours of driving to a day. That is a real cost, and it means this stop suits people who are genuinely interested in the birds or the hiking nearby rather than those adding it as a casual roadside pause. For the former group, the detour is straightforwardly justified.